Planning is only half the battle—when and how you plant determines whether your trees will just survive or truly thrive in Central Texas. This guide walks you through the best times to plant each type of tree and how to set up your orchard for long-term success in Gardening Zone 8b.
In Zone 8b, most fruit trees should be planted while they’re dormant—between mid-December and late February. This allows the roots to establish before the heat of spring and summer. However, not all trees follow the same rules. Here’s a breakdown by type:
- Peaches, Plums, Pears, Apples, Persimmons: Plant between December and February during dormancy.
- Figs and Pomegranates: Dormant planting is preferred, but early spring can also work.
- Citrus (Meyer lemon, Satsuma, etc.): Wait until after the last frost—typically late March to early April.
Be sure to match each variety to your region’s average chill hours (400–600 in most parts of Central Texas). Trees that require more than 700 chill hours often won’t fruit reliably here.
Can You Plant Fruit Trees in the Fall?
Yes, fall is one of the best times to plant container-grown trees in Central Texas. From late October through early December, the soil is still warm enough to encourage deep root development while cooler air reduces transplant stress. This allows trees to become well-established before spring. The only exception? Avoid planting citrus or other cold-sensitive tropicals in fall—they’re best reserved for spring after the last frost.
Fall planting is ideal for peaches, plums, pears, apples, figs, pomegranates, persimmons, jujubes, and most natives or Mediterranean-adapted trees like olives and mulberries.
Let’s Review That: Fall vs Winter Tree Planting
Fall Planting (Container-Grown): Late October – Early December
In Central Texas, fall is the best time to plant trees that come in containers with established roots. The combination of mild days and warm soil gives the roots time to grow before winter dormancy. Because the weather is cooler, the tree experiences less transplant shock and needs less water than it would in spring or summer. By the time the first summer heat arrives, it already has a strong root system to draw from.
Why it works:
- Warm soil encourages continued root growth.
- Cooler air reduces stress on the canopy.
- Fall rains often help establish moisture balance naturally.
Tips:
- Avoid planting too early while soil is still hot or too late once hard freezes start.
- Water deeply before freezes, since dry roots are more vulnerable to cold damage.
Winter Planting (Bare-Root or Dormant): December – January
Winter is the right time for planting bare-root trees or dormant stock. During this window, trees are not actively growing, which makes transplanting less stressful. The cooler soil still allows roots to establish, setting the stage for vigorous growth when spring arrives.
Why it works:
- Trees are in dormancy, so they can be moved and planted without heavy stress.
- Under normal Hill Country winters, the soil temperature rarely drops below 40°F, even when air temps hit the 20s. Roots are insulated by soil and mulch, so they don’t freeze.
- The Snowpocalypse of 2021 is an exception to this rule, and because of that we recommend leaning towards early December for planting over late January.
- Planting before bud break (usually February to early March) ensures roots settle before active growth starts.
Tips:
- Keep roots moist and never let them dry out during handling.
- Plant before buds begin to swell or leaf out.
Choosing a Planting Site
Your orchard’s location can determine whether it thrives or fails. Here’s what to consider:
- Drainage: Avoid low-lying areas where water can pool. If in doubt, build up a raised berm for each tree.
- Sunlight: Choose a location with full sun—at least 6–8 hours of direct sunlight per day.
- Air Flow: Good airflow helps reduce disease and frost pockets. Slight slopes with good drainage are ideal.
- Protection: Install a high fence early to protect from deer and livestock if applicable.
Orchard Layout and Spacing
Spacing trees properly is critical for airflow, disease control, and harvesting access. Here are general guidelines:
- Standard fruit trees: 18–22 feet apart
- Dwarf fruit trees: 8–12 feet apart
- Rows: 20–24 feet between rows if using machinery
Plant rows running north–south to maximize sun exposure and ensure even ripening. Be sure to allow space for wheelbarrows, hoses, or tractors as needed.
Soil Preparation and Planting Tips
- Conduct a soil test before planting and amend as needed with compost or mineral blends.
- Dig holes wide enough to spread the roots, and deep enough to keep the graft line just above soil level.
- Mulch with 2–4 inches of wood chips, keeping it away from the trunk to prevent rot.
- Water deeply and consistently, especially during the first two years of establishment.
Pollination Considerations
Many fruit trees need a compatible pollinator to bear fruit. Be sure to plant at least two cultivars of apples, pears, or plums with overlapping bloom times. Some varieties, like figs and peaches, are self-fertile and can produce with a single tree.
Stone Fruits (Peach, Plum, Apricot, Nectarine)
- Fall Planting (container-grown): Late Oct – Early Dec
- Winter Planting (bare-root): Dec – Feb
- Chill Hours: 300–500 for most low-chill varieties
- Pollination: Some require cross-pollination (especially plums), others are self-fertile
Choose varieties bred for low chill hours like ‘Eva’s Pride’, ‘Florida King’, or ‘Methley’ plum. Avoid early bloomers in frost-prone microclimates. Plant during dormancy or in late fall for best results.
Pome Fruits (Apple, Pear, Quince)
- Fall Planting (container-grown): Late Oct – Early Dec
- Winter Planting (bare-root): Dec – Feb
- Chill Hours: 400–600 depending on variety
- Pollination: Most require cross-pollination
Pome fruits do well with chill hours Central Texas can offer. ‘Anna’ and ‘Dorsett Golden’ apples, and ‘Orient’ or ‘Warren’ pears are reliable choices. Ensure you plant two varieties with overlapping bloom times to encourage good pollination.
Figs, Persimmons, Pomegranates
- Fall Planting (container-grown): Late Oct – Early Dec
- Winter Planting: Dec – Feb
- Chill Hours: Low or none required
- Pollination: Most are self-fertile
These Mediterranean-adapted fruits do extremely well in Central Texas. ‘Celeste’ and ‘Texas Everbearing’ figs are popular; ‘Fuyu’ persimmon and ‘Wonderful’ pomegranate are excellent starter varieties. All thrive with fall planting and minimal chill hours.
Olive and Avocado
- Planting Time: Early Spring (March – April) only
- Chill Hours: Not applicable; frost sensitive
- Pollination: Some need cross-pollination
These subtropicals are not suited for fall planting due to freeze risk. Wait until after the last frost to plant. Choose frost-hardy olive cultivars like ‘Arbequina’. For avocado, consider cold-hardy Mexican types like ‘Lila’ or ‘Joey’, and be prepared to protect them on winter nights.
Companion Fruits (Mulberry, Elderberry, Jujube, Medlar)
- Fall Planting (container-grown): Late Oct – Early Dec
- Winter Planting: Dec – Feb (bare-root or dormant)
- Chill Hours: Low to moderate depending on species
- Pollination: Mostly self-fertile
These lesser-known fruits are powerful companions in a diversified orchard. Mulberries and jujubes handle heat and drought exceptionally well. Elderberries prefer partial sun and moisture. Medlars need chill hours and rich soil. All are strong candidates for fall planting if grown in containers.
Orchard Layout and Spacing Tips
- Spacing for standard trees: 18–22 ft apart
- Spacing for dwarf trees: 8–12 ft apart
- Row spacing: 20–24 ft if using equipment
- Orientation: Rows running north–south for even sun exposure
Plan ahead for airflow, maintenance access, and growth. Avoid planting too close to fences or buildings. If planting on a slope, plant on contour or terraces to help retain water.
Site Selection, Soil, and Water
- Choose a site with full sun and good drainage
- Conduct a soil test and amend with compost or mineral-rich organic matter
- Water deeply and consistently during the first two years
- Mulch with 2–4 inches of wood chips, avoiding contact with the trunk
If you’re dealing with heavy clay or shallow soil, build up raised mounds or berms. For rocky Hill Country terrain, consider using swales or catchment basins to hold rainfall around trees.
Pollination Guidelines
- Apples, pears, and plums require cross-pollination—plant at least two compatible varieties
- Peaches, figs, pomegranates, persimmons, and most citrus are self-fertile
- Check bloom time compatibility to ensure successful fruit set
Bees and native pollinators play a huge role in orchard success. Consider adding flowering perennials and herbs nearby to support them year-round.
Quick Planting Calendar by Tree Type
| Tree Type | Chill Hours | Planting Window | Pollination |
|---|---|---|---|
| Peach | 300–500 | Dec–Feb | Self or cross-pollinate |
| Pear | 400–600 | Dec–Feb | Requires cross-pollinator |
| Apple | 500–700 | Dec–Feb | Requires cross-pollinator |
| Fig | None | Dec–Feb or early March | Self-pollinating |
| Citrus | None | Late March–April | Most are self-pollinating |
Final Thoughts
When you plant your orchard in Central Texas, timing and setup are everything. Stick to the dormant season for most trees, avoid frost-sensitive planting windows for citrus, and give your orchard room to grow. By choosing the right site, layout, and tree types, you’re setting yourself up for abundant harvests for years to come.
Want help designing your orchard layout or choosing the right cultivars for your soil and chill hours? Reach out—we’re happy to share what’s worked for us here at Mother Luck Ranch.
